How to build a decent stereo system? At some point, every music lover has asked themselves this question. Unfortunately, there is no simple answer, because even experienced audiophiles are still looking for their holy grail. However, a few basic issues can be explained to people who are planning to buy their first audio system. Although no one guarantees that with such knowledge you will be able to configure the best set in the world, we can help those who are not familiar with the subject avoid some basic mistakes and explain what this game is really about. As our experience shows, many beginners need such help very much, so in this guide, we will focus on this basic issue, and to make everything as clear and concise as possible, we will break down this "first lesson in audiophilism" into easy-to-learn steps.
A good starting point can be our entry level H95 integrated amplifier that you can read about here.
If you've sought help by reading reviews or discussions on some online forums, you may have been frightened into thinking that audio equipment is very complicated and that trying to put together a good hi-fi set-up without the help of a specialist is doomed to failure. This is not so. Can't tell the difference between two-way and three-way speakers? No problem - as long as you're willing to learn what it's all about and whether it even matters, We're sure you'll get there. Afraid that if you buy the wrong equipment, you'll quickly ruin it? This is also highly unlikely. Just follow the basic rules and no one will get hurt. Don't be afraid to trust your own intuition and don't let impedance charts win out over listening pleasure. If you love music and want to hear it in the best possible quality, before you know it you will be devouring reviews of the tube amplifiers and audiophile cables with excitement. That, however, is yet to come. Let's assume we are starting from scratch - putting ourselves in the shoes of someone who wants to buy audio equipment but has no idea where to start. So where?
Find out what you need
To build a stereo system that you will truly enjoy, you need to start by defining your requirements. There are a number of factors to consider, such as the dimensions and acoustics of your listening room, functionality, design, or the sources you use most often. All of these are inextricably linked with one more - budget. If we have an average-sized room for our sound system and we get our music from our favorite streaming service, it will certainly be easier. We will be able to afford higher-quality equipment than if we were looking for a hi-fi set for a huge living room and, in addition to a streamer, we need a compact disc player, a turntable and the ability to connect a TV, games console and headphones to the system. A list of the sources needed will help us choose the right equipment, or at least give us some direction and allow us to determine the initial cost of the whole set-up. Fortunately, we no longer need to buy a separate device for each format or function. Manufacturers are increasingly willing to combine many functions in one box, so we can have, for example, an amplifier with a built-in network player or an impressive set of analog and digital inputs, which for many users solves the issue of the source.
The H190v is Hegel's most complete integrated amplifier. It has streaming, an input for your record player, TV remote functionality and all the digital and analog inputs and outputs you would need.
Why stereo is so beloved by music lovers
A stereo system is a system consisting of two main sound channels - left and right. Its task is to reproduce sound in such a way that the listener has a sense of spatiality and directionality of sound, which gives a natural, realistic listening experience. The first attempts at stereophony took place in the 1920s when inventors and engineers began experimenting with technology aimed at creating the impression of spatial sound effects. In 1927, Alan Blumlein, a British sound engineer, developed the first method of stereophonic recording, which is considered the foundation for modern stereophony. However, the first commercial stereo releases had to wait until 1958. That was when Columbia Records decided to distribute such recordings, which started a revolution in the way music was produced.
Before we go any further, let's also explain something that is a problem for many music lovers - stereo (two channels) vs. home cinema (multichannel). Although adding more channels seems tempting, practice shows that such systems are not very suitable for listening to music. An additional difficulty is the fact that they require a larger number of speakers to be placed in the room. If we primarily want to watch films or concerts, and we rarely or never listen to music, this may be the way to go, but for music lovers the matter is clear - the best option for listening to music is a stereo system. This does not mean that such equipment is not suitable for movies or concerts. A good two-channel set can work great with a TV or console. A modern amplifier or all-in-one system equipped with digital inputs can be easily integrated with our home entertainment center and we will be able to enjoy high-quality sound during evening screenings. But it is still "old school" stereo and not Dolby Atmos? Don't worry about it and trust your ears. Many experts and users believe that an audiophile stereo system is better suited for watching movies than a plastic receiver and five, nine, or thirteen small speakers hanging on the walls.
And there is no reason not to have both. All Hegel integrated stereo amplifiers can be used as a part of a surround system. Hat means you can start with a very good stereo system and build out to a full surround system in the future. Giving you the best of both worlds. If you want to go all out Hegel even has some pretty insane power amplifiers you can use.
What is a stereo system?
Every decent stereo set consists of three elements - a set of speakers, an amplifier, and a source (this function can sometimes be taken over by an amplifier equipped with appropriate modules). Of course, there are more complex setups, where the speakers are supported by several active subwoofers, and there are a dozen or several dozen devices on the rack - a turntable, phono stage, digital transport, converter, preamplifier, mono power amplifiers, power supplies, power conditioners and so on. You can also simplify it even more, for example by buying active speakers. The most common situation includes these three key elements, but more and more often the amplifier also acts as a source, so we are left with two components. They should match both each other and our listening room. We can say that the right choice of amplifier and speakers determines the success of the entire mission.
Start from the end - how to choose loudspeakers
Before looking at matching speakers and amplifier, we should determine which speakers we need. Size is key. If you have a small room, medium-sized bookshelf speakers, i.e. speakers that can be placed on existing furniture or stands, should be sufficient. If, on the other hand, we have a large living room, we will need floorstanders. As a general rule, the larger the room, the larger the speakers should be. Audiophiles will protest that this depends on many other factors, such as the shape and acoustics of the room. Yes, but if you are just starting your adventure with stereo equipment, you can follow a simple rule - in rooms of a dozen to twenty-something square meters, it is safer to use bookshelf speakers, while in larger rooms - floorstanders. Too large loudspeakers placed in a small room will start to choke and boom, and too small loudspeakers in a large living room will sound like a small boombox in a sports hall. Some music lovers make a mistake at this stage, which cannot be corrected later by installing acoustic panels and other specialist accessories on the walls. If we are still not sure whether we have assessed the situation correctly, a smart solution is to buy bookshelf speakers and an active subwoofer. We then have the opportunity to adapt the amount of bass to the size and acoustics of our listening room. You just need to make sure that your amplifier, in addition to speaker sockets, also has a special subwoofer output (usually described as "sub-out" or "pre-out"), or that your subwoofer has High Level speaker cable inputs.
The size of the listening room is not the only factor that determines whether you should choose bookshelf or floorstanding speakers. In fact, it would be a good idea to immediately consider the intended positioning of your speakers. If they can be placed anywhere, while maintaining the appropriate distance from the walls, small floorstander sets can work even in a room with an area of 15-18 m?. However, if we have to place the equipment on a chest of drawers, desk, or shelf standing against the wall, bookshelf speaker will be a better choice, preferably those in a closed housing or with a bass reflex placed on the front wall. Cost is also an important consideration. Bookshelf speakers are usually slightly cheaper, but if we want to set them up in an optimal way, we will have to add stands to their price. Buying such speakers will usually be safer, especially if we have doubts about the acoustics of our listening room and are afraid of booming bass. Choosing floorstanders, on the other hand, will give us a wider frequency response (more bass) and, in many cases, better dynamics (more agile sound). In some rooms, however, the matter is not as simple as it might seem. Often both options work well, and the final choice depends only on our personal preferences.
The size of the listening room is not the only factor that determines whether you should choose bookshelf or floorstanding speakers. In some rooms, however, the matter is not as simple as it might seem. Often both options work well.
When choosing loudspeakers - especially when this is the first speakers to be in that room, and we don't quite know what the result will be - it is always good to leave ourselves some room to maneuver. Two factors will be key here - the acoustics of the listening room and the positioning of the speakers. Of course, the aim is not to turn your living room into a recording studio or an anechoic chamber, but good listening conditions can be achieved with relatively simple methods, even by laying a thick carpet on the floor or placing bookshelves against the walls. Modern acoustic systems can not only reduce reverberation but also decorate the room. When it comes to positioning, it is advisable to consult the online manuals and user manuals of the models you are interested in. Every self-respecting loudspeaker manufacturer provides clear instructions on how the loudspeakers should be positioned and which variants can be chosen. Even so, it is worth leaving some margin for error and not assigning the loudspeakers a single place in the room before we have even picked them up and unpacked them. It is better to give them time to warm up and then make adjustments.
At Hegel, we use all kinds of speakers from a myriad of different brands that all have their own unique sound characteristics. Because Hegel amplifiers are neutral and powerful, we sound good with all of them. To a large extent this is due to our very unique SoundEngine technology.
The second half of the story - the amplifier
If we have managed to choose the speaker sets, the second key element of our stereo system will be the amplifier or - increasingly often - the all-in-one system. On the one hand, this device must have sufficiently high power to properly control the speakers we have chosen, and on the other hand, offer all the sockets and functions we need. Oh, and there is also the issue of sound quality, but we will come back to that.
When choosing an integrated amplifier (an amplifier with both the preamplifier and power amplifier in one box), the first thing to consider is exactly what it is to be used for and what sources it will work with. Sometimes it's worth investing even in features and sockets that we do not need for the time being. In other words, if you're not an experienced audiophile and don't feel confident in the matter, sometimes it's better to have something than not to have it. The number and type of devices that can be connected to our integrated amplifier are, of course, determined by the input connectors. Until recently, analog RCA connectors and, in some really sophisticated models, balanced XLR sockets were the norm. This is still considered the basic type of input on an integrated amplifier, but in practice, they are used more and more because what to connect to them? - compact disc player, turntable, tape recorder? In the age of files and streaming, more and more models are being enhanced with digital inputs, such as optical and coaxial. These make it possible, among other things, to send the audio signal from a TV, games console or satellite receiver to the amplifier. If, in addition to listening to music, you often watch films or series, use a console, or plan to use an external source such as a CD transport or network player with a digital output, you should make sure the amplifier you choose have digital inputs.
Following this path, we come to all-in-one systems, also known as network amplifiers. In addition to performing their basic task, they are equipped with a digital-to-analog converter and a streaming module, thanks to which they support, for example, AirPlay, Spotify Connect, TIDAL Connect or Roon. The key to success here is, of course, network connectivity - wired (LAN) or wireless (Wi-Fi). Sound can be sent to many amplifiers from a smartphone, tablet, or other device, such as a laptop. It is quite possible that since the manufacturer thought about network connection, there is also an application for mobile devices, thanks to which we will be able to control various functions of the amplifier, for example, change the source, set the volume level or turn off the display. Streaming is not the only convenience that the amplifier can offer. If we do not want to invest in an external headphone amplifier or phono stage, we should make sure that such additions are also included in the equipment of the model we choose. The standard for headphones is of course a 6.35 or 3.5 mm jack output. If we would like to use a turntable, we need to check whether it is equipped with an MM or MC cartridge. Most turntable inputs in amplifiers only support the first type, but there are also those in which we can also connect a turntable with an MC cartridge directly to the phono input, and even set the input parameters using knobs or small toggle switches. If we plan to improve our stereo system in the future, it would be good to have a preamplifier output or a direct input to the power amplifier. This will allow us to "split" the amplifier in such a way that we can, for example, connect an external streamer or preamplifier to it.
Hegel was one of the first high quality stereo electronic manufacturers to include digital connectors and streaming features in their integrated amplifiers. As a result we now have an extensive lineup of streaming amplifiers.
How to match speakers to an amplifier and vice versa
Much more important than choosing two key elements of a stereo system is matching them to each other. The synergy between the amplifier and the speakers is - in addition to the proper matching of speakers to the size and acoustics of the listening room - an absolutely crucial issue. If we find the right configuration, we will enjoy excellent sound because the speakers and the electronics driving them will be complimenting each other. How to do it? You probably think that you have to take a close look at their technical parameters and use some ready-made formulas, but it's not like that. Most manufacturers make sure that their equipment is as universal as possible, which is why the electrical characteristics of devices from the same category are similar, so it's difficult to make a cardinal mistake. Are you afraid that you will choose the wrong one, and right after connecting and starting the system in your home, the speakers will burst into flames? Don't worry, it is highly unlikely. A much more important issue from the user's point of view is matching the speakers and the amplifier in terms of sound. After all, we strive to build a system with the best possible sound qualities, and in this area, staring at technical specs is unlikely to lead us to success.
Nevertheless, it is worth knowing what the parameters of both connected components mean. Many people consider power first and foremost when setting up a stereo system. There is a belief that the output power of an amplifier should be equal to or slightly higher than the power of the speakers. Generally speaking, this is nonsense. In reality, different methods and standards are used to measure the power of amplifiers than to measure speakers. It is therefore not true that if both components have the same power, they are perfectly matched. There are many myths on this subject, so in order not to confuse anyone, we will not even mention them.
If we want to deal with the issue of parameters relatively quickly, we can start with the speakers, looking primarily at their efficiency and nominal impedance, as well as the amplifier's power recommended by the manufacturer. Impedance is, in a very simplified way, the same as electrical resistance, where inductive and capacitive factors are also taken into account. The impedance of a speaker depends on the frequency and affects its ability to transmit current from the amplifier, which affects the volume of the sound. Low impedance forces the amplifier to deliver higher power, while too high impedance can limit current flow and reduce the speaker's efficiency. Typical home speakers have an impedance of 4-8 Ω and most amplifiers can handle such a load without a problem. Hegel amplifiers stability in low impedances can, however, contribute to even more dynamic sound than with many other amplifier. All Hegel amplifiers are rated to drive 2 Ω loads.
Efficiency (otherwise known as effectiveness) is given in decibels and tells you how much sound the speakers in question can make when given a 1 W signal. If you put speakers with 90 dB efficiency in your home and crank up the amplifier to reach 1 W, you will hear a sound with an intensity of 90 dB. It is worth noting that measurements are usually taken at a distance of one meter from the speakers. Typical values for home speaker sets range from eighty to ninety decibels. For example, speakers with an efficiency of 80-85 dB can be considered difficult to drive (they play more quietly at the same power). Most models available on the market are characterized by an efficiency in the range of 87-90 dB. Those with higher efficiency (in some models it reaches 100 dB) should be considered exceptionally easy to drive. Does this mean that the more, the better? Absolutely not. The efficiency of loudspeakers is intrinsically linked to their design, and some designers prefer to sacrifice this parameter in exchange for more powerful bass or smoother sound throughout the bandwidth. It is also worth noting that the efficiency of loudspeakers is important from the point of view of the electronic components connected to them. Many amplifiers feel most comfortable at medium volume levels.
When looking at the parameters of an amplifier, we will definitely start with its output power. Manufacturers of amplifiers and receivers most often use the rated power here. This is the power that a given system can give off without exceeding the assumed distortion factor (usually 1%). Some companies do not stick to this concept, of course, wanting to boast a higher result. For this reason, they provide, for example, RMS (Root Mean Square) power, also known as effective power, and PMPO (Peak Momentary Performance Output), i.e. momentary peak power. Here we are dealing with the power that a given amplifier can emit for a very short time, for example, a millisecond. As you can guess, it is higher than the "real" rated power. A favorite trick of some manufacturers is also to provide power when only one channel is driven. Have you ever seen an inexpensive 7-channel receiver that has a power of 140 W per channel? Yes, per channel. So, if we connect 7 speakers, it will be 20 W per channel.
In every amplifier, the THD (Total Harmonic Distortion) coefficient is also important. This is nothing more than the general value of "additions" that a given system adds to the original signal. It is given in percentages. In most transistor amplifiers, we will be dealing with a fraction of a percent, say 0.05%, while in tube amplifiers, THD can reach 1%. The lower the number, the better. Or at least in theory. The struggle with these measurements is that they are measured in a steady state, while music is dynamic. Meaning they do not provide the full answer. Confusing? Well, unless the manufacturer has taken care to completely eliminate these unwanted distortions. An example is Hegel and the technology that underlies the creation of this brand - SoundEngine. This is a system created by Bent Holter that cancels distortions in real-time by reversing them in phase and adding them to the original signal. This solution works similarly to noise canceling headphones. Thanks to this, distortions in Hegel amplifiers - including intermodulation (IMD) distortions - are maintained at a very low level.
You can read more about the SoundEngine technology here.
Other parameters that are definitely worth mentioning include the frequency response, signal-to-noise ratio, and damping factor. Let's start with the first one. Most amplifiers available on the market cover the acoustic band of 20 Hz - 20 kHz. There is no need for more because human hearing will not allow us to notice it anyway, right? Partially. If our equipment goes far beyond these limits, we have a greater chance that its bandwidth is flat in this key range. In other words, it is better to have some reserve than not to have it. SNR (Signal to Noise Ratio) is nothing more than the difference between the level of the output signal and the unwanted signals that will accompany it. Most often, we are talking about noise and hum generated during the operation of the amplifier. The higher the value, the better, with 90 dB already considered a satisfactory result.
What is the damping factor? Many audiophiles identify this parameter with the ability of the amplifier to "control" the speakers, and for good reason. Most speakers convert an electrical signal into sound using a vibrating membrane, which, together with the coil and suspension elements, has its own mass, and therefore a certain inertia. If our amplifier were to emit a very short, instantly cut-off pulse, it would be ideal if the membrane returned to its initial position and stopped just as quickly. Since it has already been set in motion, it will probably continue to swing out to a certain point or return in a very uncontrolled manner. During this movement, a current is induced in the speaker coil, which should be damped. This task is therefore automatically passed on to the amplifier. The damping factor is calculated as the ratio of the nominal impedance of the speakers to the output impedance of the amplifier. It is therefore expressed as a dimensionless number. The higher the damping factor, the better. Results above 10 are acceptable, values in the range of 50-100 are a good average, and 200-400 is already a lot. Thanks to SoundEngine technology, efficient power supply, and the refined power amp section in Hegel amplifiers, this parameter reaches values from 500 to even 4000. With such a strong heart of the system, we can choose pretty much any speakers we like.
Finishing touches - additional sources, cabling, and accessories
The basis of a stereo system is a set of speakers, an amplifier, and a source. Can we stop there? Yes, but every music lover will sooner or later want to go further. To make the equipment more enjoyable and longer, it is worth connecting additional sources to it, such as a TV, a games console, or a record player. Vinyl records have an undeniable magic in them, and a decent record player does not have to be expensive at all. You can start with a simple machine, and if it turns out that we like it, after some time switch to something more serious. There is no denying that a stereo system looks much more interesting with a record player, even if it's an inexpensive one. If from time to time we want to listen to music without disturbing other household members, headphones will definitely come in handy. You will say that you already have ones that connect to your phone via Bluetooth. Fine, but good wired headphones combined with high-class stationary equipment offer a completely different listening experience. With a turntable and headphones, are there further expenses ahead? Not if you choose an amplifier with extensive equipment, such as the Hegel H190v, which, in addition to a DAC and streamer, has a phono preamplifier for MM cartridges and a headphone amplifier with a classic 6.35 mm output. Not every user will benefit from these extras, but - these words recur like a mantra - it is better to have them and not need them than to need and not have them.
A high-end stereo system deserves good cables, but if you are just taking your first steps in this field, it is most reasonable to divide this operation into stages. At first, ordinary cables should be enough, which will of course limit the possibilities of our set a little, but replacing them with something more audiophile will give us another portion of joy and allow us to tune the system according to our preferences.
In addition to various sources, our stereo system also needs a few basic accessories. You will say that this is not important? Okay, but what will your equipment stand on, how will you connect the individual elements to each other and where will you get power for them? Exactly - this is where the gates to the rich world of audio cabling and accessories open up for us. Furniture is a topic for a separate article, so let's limit ourselves to saying that it is crucial to provide our system with stability and proper ventilation.
As for cabling, everyone has gone through a stage of skepticism but if you are sensitive to sound quality, you will definitely notice the difference. A high-end stereo system deserves good cables, but if you are just taking your first steps in this field, it is most reasonable to divide this operation into stages. At first, ordinary cables should be enough, which will of course limit the possibilities of our set a little, but replacing them with something more audiophile will give us another portion of joy and allow us to tune the system according to our preferences. The same applies to power accessories. You can start with the cables that come with the equipment and a regular power strip, and then look around for something more solid. During this time, our equipment will warm up, and we will have time to find the optimal positioning of the speakers and check what effects a different arrangement of certain elements of the decor of our listening room will have.
Another element of the puzzle may be the purchase of special acoustic panels. In many cases, it is this stage of system refinement that brings the best results, and it costs relatively little. And if you realize that all this fun has gone beyond the confines of a one-time adventure and has become an ongoing "process" in which you start to wonder how your favorite music will sound if you move the carpet a little forward or change the cable connecting the amplifier to the streamer... Well, welcome to the world of truly dedicated audiophiles:-)
Conclusion
For a novice music lover, assembling a complete stereo system from scratch is no easy task, but fortunately, equipment manufacturers are trying to make this process easier for us, and access to knowledge is practically unlimited. High-end speakers and tube amplifiers require some knowledge and experience, but lower and mid-range models are relatively problem-free and, contrary to appearances, it's difficult to make a cardinal mistake here that will cause our equipment not to work properly or burst into flames the moment we switch it on.
In terms of technology, speaker sets are roughly the same as those produced several decades ago, but electronic components, and amplifiers in particular, have evolved in recent years into devices that combine several functions and are essentially single-box home entertainment centers. Even turntables are manufactured in such a way that even a complete novice can handle their assembly, connection, and operation. We should definitely start this adventure with our own needs and strive to meet them one by one. It is worth remembering that placing the equipment in your living room does not mean the end of the search. Along the way, you will discover many interesting places that you will want to visit from time to time to broaden your horizons.
When configuring your own set, it is also worth remembering that it will probably not be a once in a lifetime purchase. If you catch the audiophile bug, you will at some point get the urge to replace your speakers, buy better cables, supplement your system with an active subwoofer, or rearrange your listening room. This is perfectly normal, as the game is addictive and each upgrade brings a lot of joy and the desire to rediscover your favorite music as if you were hearing it for the first time again.
